Customizing GI Joe action figures—often referred to in the hobby as “kitbashing” or “customizing”—is a rewarding intersection of art, engineering, and nostalgia. Whether you are looking to recreate a classic character that never made it to production, or you want to build a unique original character for your collection, this guide will walk you through the process from start to finish.
This project is suitable for beginners, though it does require a steady hand and a healthy dose of patience. You do not need to be a professional sculptor or painter; you simply need the willingness to learn and the ability to follow a methodical process.
Complete Tools List
- Precision Hobby Knife (X-Acto): Essential for trimming plastic.
- Needle-nose Pliers: Useful for removing joints and pulling stubborn pins.
- Small Screwdriver Set: Specifically, a jeweler’s Phillips head for modern era screws.
- Fine-grit Sandpaper (400 to 2000 grit): For smoothing joints and prepping surfaces.
- Small Paint Brushes: High-quality synthetic brushes (sizes 000 to 2).
- Dremel Rotary Tool: Optional but highly recommended for drilling and grinding.
Materials Needed
- “Donor” Figures: Old or inexpensive figures to harvest parts from.
- Acrylic Model Paints: Brands like Vallejo or Citadel are industry standards.
- Plastic Primer: Crucial for paint adhesion.
- Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate): Gel consistency is best for control.
- Epoxy Putty (Apoxie Sculpt): For filling gaps or sculpting new details.
- Matte or Gloss Clear Coat: To seal your work.
Estimated Time and Cost
For a standard head-swap and repaint, expect to spend about 6 to 10 hours of active work spread over a weekend. The cost is quite low if you already own figures; a starter kit of paints and basic tools will run you approximately $50–$75, making this a very affordable hobby.
Preparation and Planning
Before you touch your favorite figure, preparation is the most critical phase. Customizing involves altering plastic, which is often permanent, so a “measure twice, cut once” philosophy is vital.
Pre-work Requirements
Start by sourcing your “donor” parts. Many GI Joe collectors purchase “fodder lots” from online marketplaces—these are boxes of broken or incomplete figures perfect for harvesting limbs, heads, and accessories. Clean all your parts with warm, soapy water to remove factory oils, which can prevent paint from sticking.
Safety Precautions
Working with hobby knives and chemicals requires caution. Always cut away from your body. When using a Dremel, wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from flying plastic shards. If you are using spray primers or clear coats, do so in a well-ventilated area or outdoors, and always wear a respirator mask to avoid inhaling fumes.
Workspace Setup
Your workspace should be well-lit. A desk lamp with a magnifying lens is a game-changer for painting small details. Cover your surface with a self-healing cutting mat; this protects your table and provides a non-slip base for your work. Keep a small bowl of water nearby for cleaning brushes and a paper towel for blotting excess paint.
Planning Tips
Don’t just dive in. Sketch your idea on paper first. If you are aiming for a specific “look,” find reference images of the character. Consider the articulation points—if you swap an arm from one figure to another, ensure the joint types are compatible. GI Joe figures have evolved over decades (from the 1982 ARAH line to the 2007 25th Anniversary and the modern Classified Series). Mixing eras often requires significant “dremeling” to make parts fit together seamlessly. Planning your color palette in advance will prevent the “muddy” look that comes from over-mixing colors on the fly.
Step 1: Disassembly and Part Compatibility
The first major step is safely taking your figures apart. GI Joe figures are held together by either internal screws or friction-fit pins.
Instructions
- Removing Screws: For figures with back screws, use a precision screwdriver to remove them. Keep these in a small container so they don’t get lost.
- The Boiling Water Method: If your figure is held together by pins or is a “snap-fit” design, submerge the torso in near-boiling water for about 30–60 seconds. The heat softens the plastic, allowing you to pop the torso halves apart or pull the limbs out of the sockets without breaking the pegs.
- Pin Removal: For joints held by metal pins, use a thin nail or a pin-punch tool to gently tap the pin out from the side that is slightly recessed.
- Fitting: Test-fit your new parts. If a peg is too thick, use your sandpaper to gently shave it down. If a hole is too loose, apply a tiny amount of super glue to the peg, let it cure completely, and then sand it until it fits snugly.
Tips and Tricks
If a part feels stuck, do not force it. Return it to the hot water. Forcing a cold plastic joint is the fastest way to snap a peg inside a socket, which is a nightmare to repair.
Common Mistakes
A common error is rushing the boiling water process. If the plastic isn’t soft enough, you will stress the surrounding plastic, creating white “stress marks” that are impossible to remove.
Visual Descriptions
You are looking for the plastic to turn slightly translucent or feel pliable like rubber. When the parts separate, they should come apart with minimal resistance.
Checkpoint
Checkpoint: Ensure that all your parts fit together with the intended range of motion. If the arm hits the chest and prevents full movement, you need to sand the shoulder socket before proceeding.
Step 2: Sculpting and Surface Preparation
Once your parts are assembled, you may notice gaps where the new parts meet the old ones, or you might want to add custom details like pouches or armor.
Instructions
- Gap Filling: Mix a small amount of two-part epoxy putty (like Apoxie Sculpt). Press it into the gaps between the torso and limbs. Use a sculpting tool or a toothpick dipped in water to smooth the surface.
- Detailing: If you are adding a belt, holster, or emblem, build it up in thin layers. It is easier to add more putty than to carve away too much later.
- Sanding: Once the putty has fully cured (usually 24 hours), use your fine-grit sandpaper to blend the putty into the surrounding plastic until the surface is flush.
- Priming: Apply a thin, even coat of plastic-compatible primer. This creates a “tooth” for the paint to grip.
Tips and Tricks
Use water to keep your sculpting tools clean; epoxy putty will stick to dry metal, but it glides over wet surfaces. For fine details, use a needle to texture the putty to match the “grain” of the original plastic.
Common Mistakes
Applying too much putty at once makes it difficult to control. Build your custom accessories in stages. Also, failing to sand the primer can lead to a rough, grainy finish on your final paint job.
Visual Descriptions
The transition between the original figure part and your added putty should be invisible to the touch. When you run your finger over the area, it should feel like one solid piece.
Checkpoint
Checkpoint: Hold the figure under a bright light. If you see any shiny spots or uneven textures, give it another quick sand. Your surface must be matte and uniform before painting.
Step 3: Painting and Detailing
Now that your figure is prepped, it’s time to bring it to life. Painting is where the character’s personality truly emerges.
Instructions
- Base Coating: Start with your largest areas of color. Use thinned-down acrylic paints. It is better to apply three thin coats than one thick coat, which will obscure the figure’s sculpted details.
- Layering: Once the base is dry, move to smaller details like webbing, straps, and insignias. Use a size 000 brush for these fine lines.
- Washing: To add depth, use a “wash”—a very thin, watery paint (usually a dark brown or black) that flows into the crevices and highlights the muscles and gear.
- Dry Brushing: Finally, take a lighter shade of your base color, wipe almost all the paint off the brush onto a paper towel, and lightly flick it over the raised areas. This highlights the edges.
Tips and Tricks
Always use a “wet palette”—a container with a damp paper towel and parchment paper—to keep your acrylics from drying out while you work. If you make a mistake, wipe it away immediately with a damp brush before it dries.
Common Mistakes
The biggest mistake is using paint straight from the bottle. Always thin your paint with a drop of water. Thick paint looks clumpy and ruins the “action figure” aesthetic.
Visual Descriptions
Your figure should look like it has “depth.” The wash should make the muscles look defined, and the dry brushing should make the equipment look worn and realistic.
Checkpoint
Checkpoint: Inspect the figure from a distance of two feet. Does the color scheme look balanced? Are the lines clean? If you are satisfied, it is time for the final seal.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Customizing is an experimental process, and you will inevitably run into snags. Here is how to handle them.
Problem 1: Paint rubbing off at the joints.
Solution: This is the “joint rub” curse. Even with primer, friction will wear paint away. The best solution is to sand the joint slightly before painting to create extra clearance, and then use a clear matte sealer specifically designed for flexible parts.
Problem 2: The figure feels “sticky” after painting.
Solution: This usually happens if you haven’t let the paint cure long enough, or if the humidity was too high during the painting process. Place the figure in a dry area with good airflow for 48 hours. If it remains sticky, you may have used an incompatible clear coat.
Problem 3: The head is loose and keeps bobbing.
Solution: This is a common issue when swapping heads between different figure lines. Take a tiny piece of clear plastic wrap or a small sliver of a rubber band and place it over the ball joint before popping the head back on. This adds the necessary friction to hold the head in place.
When to Seek Professional Help:
If you are attempting to modify the internal skeletal structure of an expensive, rare vintage figure, consider consulting online forums like Hisstank or JoeCustoms. These communities have decades of collective knowledge. If you are worried about ruining a rare piece, practice on a cheap, modern figure first. There is no shame in asking for advice; most customizers are happy to share their techniques.
Final Touches and Maintenance
The final phase is what separates a toy from a display piece.
Finishing Steps
Once your paint is completely dry, apply a high-quality matte clear coat. This protects your paint from chips and gives the figure a professional, uniform finish. If you want a “tactical” or “wet” look, you can apply a gloss coat specifically to goggles or lenses to make them pop.
Quality Check Procedures
Check for “paint creep”—where paint has bled over lines—and touch it up with a fine brush. Ensure all limbs move freely. If a joint feels stiff, do not force it; work it back and forth gently until the paint inside the joint wears down to a smooth tolerance.
Maintenance Tips
Avoid displaying your custom figures in direct sunlight. UV rays will yellow the plastic and cause the paint to fade or crack over time. If you keep them in a display case, a dusting with a soft, dry makeup brush every few months is all that is required.
Care Instructions
These figures are now pieces of art, not rough-and-tumble toys. While they are durable, they are not meant for aggressive play. If you are posing them for photography, be mindful of the paint on the joints. If the paint starts to chip, keep your original paint colors in a small, sealed container so you can perform quick touch-ups.
Enhancement Suggestions
To take your work to the next level, consider adding “weathering.” Use a silver metallic pencil to add “scratches” to the edges of armor or weapons. This gives the figure a battle-hardened appearance that makes it look like it just returned from a mission in the jungle. You can also look into 3D printing custom accessories or buying custom-cast resin heads from independent artists to add unique character faces that no one else has.
By following these steps, you are not just building a toy; you are engaging in a creative process that celebrates the history of GI Joe. Take your time, enjoy the meditative nature of the painting process, and be proud of the unique piece you have added to your collection. Every scratch and every brushstroke tells a story—your story.
