Homies figures, the iconic 2-inch collectible figurines created by David Gonzales, have been a staple of urban art and street culture since the 1990s. While these figures are beloved for their distinct, gritty aesthetic, many collectors find joy in personalizing them. Whether you want to repaint a figure to match a specific outfit, add accessories, or create an entirely new character based on your own neighborhood icons, customizing your Homies is a rewarding artistic endeavor.
This project is categorized as beginner-to-intermediate. You do not need professional sculpting skills, but you do need a steady hand and a healthy dose of patience. If you can handle a fine-point paintbrush and follow safety protocols, you are ready to begin.
Complete Tools List:
* Precision Hobby Knife: (e.g., X-Acto) for trimming mold lines.
* Fine-Point Paintbrushes: Sizes 000, 00, and 1 for detail work.
* Small Metal Files or Sanding Sponges: (400-800 grit) for smoothing surfaces.
* Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or higher): For cleaning the figures.
* A Palette: A plastic lid or ceramic tile works perfectly.
* A Magnifying Lamp: Highly recommended for fine detail.
Materials Needed:
* Acrylic Model Paints: Brands like Vallejo, Citadel, or Army Painter are ideal for their high pigment density.
* Acrylic Primer: A spray-on or brush-on primer (grey or white).
* Matte or Gloss Varnish: To seal your finished work.
* Epoxy Sculpting Putty: (e.g., Apoxie Sculpt) for adding accessories or clothing details.
* Masking Tape: For clean lines.
Estimated Time and Cost:
For a single figure, expect to spend about 4 to 6 hours spread across a weekend to account for drying times. The cost is relatively low; if you already have basic hobby paints, you can complete a project for under $20–$30 in additional materials. Let’s bring your vision to life.
Preparation and Planning
Before you touch your paintbrush, proper preparation is the difference between a professional-looking custom and a messy project. Homies figures are made of PVC, a material that can be slightly oily or slick from the factory. If you skip preparation, your paint will peel off within weeks.
Pre-work Requirements:
Start by thoroughly cleaning your figure. Use warm, soapy water and a soft toothbrush to scrub away any factory release agents or dust. Once dry, wipe it down with a cotton ball soaked in isopropyl alcohol. This ensures the primer bonds effectively.
Safety Precautions:
Always work in a well-ventilated area. If you are using spray primers or varnishes, wear a respirator mask and work outdoors or in a ventilated garage. Hobby knives are extremely sharp; always cut away from your body and keep your fingers clear of the blade’s path. If you are using epoxy putty, wear disposable gloves to prevent skin irritation.
Workspace Setup:
Clear your workspace. You need a flat, stable surface with excellent lighting. I recommend using a “wet palette”—a container with a damp sponge and parchment paper—to keep your acrylic paints from drying out while you work. Organize your tools in a tray so you aren’t digging around while holding a painted figure.
Planning Tips:
Don’t just dive in. Sketch your design on paper first. If you are changing a Homie’s outfit, look for reference photos of the style you are emulating. Decide on your color palette before you open your paint pots. Remember the “Rule of Three”: keep your color scheme to three main colors plus highlights to ensure the figure looks cohesive. If you are adding physical accessories like sunglasses or hats, plan how they will attach to the existing structure before you start the painting process.
Step 1: Surface Preparation and Sculpting
Before adding color, you must modify the “canvas.” If your Homie needs a new hat, a chain, or a different hairstyle, now is the time to add it.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. Removing Mold Lines: Use your hobby knife to gently scrape away the “seams” running down the sides of the figure’s limbs. These lines are a byproduct of the manufacturing process. Use your fine-grit sanding sponge to smooth these areas until they are flush with the rest of the figure.
2. Mixing Epoxy: Take equal parts of your epoxy putty (Part A and Part B). Knead them together until the color is uniform. You typically have about 30–60 minutes of “working time” before it begins to harden.
3. Sculpting: Apply small amounts of the putty to the figure. Use a wet sculpting tool or a toothpick to shape the material. If you are making a hat brim, press a small ball of putty onto the head and flatten it out. If you are adding a chain, roll a thin “snake” of putty and drape it carefully.
4. Curing: Once you are satisfied with the shape, set the figure aside. Let the putty cure for at least 24 hours. Do not rush this; if the putty is soft, your paint will crack later.
Important Tips and Tricks:
Keep your sculpting tools damp with water; this prevents the epoxy from sticking to the tool instead of the figure. If you add too much putty, let it harden slightly, then sand it down to the desired shape rather than trying to remove it while wet.
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
Don’t make your sculptures too thick. Since the figures are small (2 inches), adding a massive, bulky accessory will make the figure look disproportionate. Keep your additions subtle and scale-appropriate.
Visual Descriptions:
The figure should look “clean” once the mold lines are gone. Your added putty should look like a natural extension of the plastic, not a glob stuck on the surface.
Checkpoint Confirmation:
The figure is ready for painting only when the surface is smooth, the putty is rock-hard, and you have performed a final wipe-down with a clean cloth to remove any sanding dust.
Step 2: Priming and Base Coating
Now that the figure is prepared, it is time to establish the foundation. Priming is arguably the most important step for durability.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. Applying Primer: Use a light coat of primer. If using a spray can, hold it 8–10 inches away and use quick, sweeping motions. Do not hold the trigger down while pointing at the figure, or you will create drips that obscure the fine facial details.
2. Drying: Let the primer cure for at least 4–6 hours. It should look like a uniform, matte grey or white surface.
3. Base Coating: Start with your largest areas first—usually the clothing. Use thinned-down acrylic paint. “Thinning” means adding a tiny drop of water to the paint until it reaches the consistency of skim milk.
4. Layering: Apply two thin coats rather than one thick one. The first coat might look streaky or transparent; this is normal. The second coat will provide the solid, opaque finish you need.
Important Tips and Tricks:
Use a “wet palette” to keep your paint consistency perfect. If the paint is too thick, it will leave visible brush strokes. If it is too thin, it will pool in the crevices. Aim for a smooth, even application.
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
Avoid painting over the eyes or mouth too heavily. Homies are known for their distinct facial expressions. If you accidentally paint over the eyes, use a damp toothpick to gently scratch the paint out of the eye socket before it fully dries.
Visual Descriptions:
After the base coat, the figure should look like a “blank slate” in the colors of your design. The texture should be smooth, and the colors should be vibrant but not clumpy.
Checkpoint Confirmation:
Check the figure under a bright light. Look for missed spots, especially in the armpits, between the legs, or under the chin. If you see grey primer showing through, apply a light touch-up coat.
Step 3: Detailing and Highlighting
This is where your Homie comes to life. Fine details—like facial features, logos on shirts, or jewelry—are what make a custom figure stand out.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. Facial Details: Use your 000 brush for the eyes. A tiny dot of white, followed by a smaller dot of black, creates the pupil. Use a very thin brown or dark grey wash to define the creases around the mouth and nose.
2. Adding Patterns: If you want a plaid shirt or a logo, use a steady hand. If you are painting a logo, practice on a piece of paper first. Use the tip of your brush to “dot” or “drag” the paint to form the design.
3. Highlighting: This is the secret to a professional look. Take a color one or two shades lighter than your base coat. Lightly dry-brush the raised areas—like the tops of shoulders, the knees, and the tip of the nose. This adds depth and makes the figure pop.
4. Shading: Take a color one or two shades darker than your base coat, mix it with a little extra water, and let it flow into the recessed areas (the folds of the clothes). This creates natural-looking shadows.
Important Tips and Tricks:
If you make a mistake, don’t panic. Keep a “clean-up” brush nearby—a brush dipped in water—to wipe away mistakes immediately. If the paint has dried, use a tiny bit of alcohol on a brush to lift the paint off.
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
Don’t use pure black for shading. Black often looks too harsh on small figures. Use a dark blue, dark brown, or deep purple instead; these colors provide “depth” without looking like a dark void.
Visual Descriptions:
The figure should now look three-dimensional. The eyes should have a “spark,” the clothes should look like they have fabric folds, and the overall character should have a distinct personality.
Checkpoint Confirmation:
Hold the figure at arm’s length. Does the detail work read clearly from a distance? If the details look muddled, simplify them. Less is often more with 2-inch scale figures.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even experienced customizers run into hurdles. Here is how to handle the most common problems.
Problem 1: The paint is peeling or rubbing off.
* Solution: This usually means the figure wasn’t cleaned properly, or the primer didn’t bond. You will need to strip the paint using a gentle soak in isopropyl alcohol, scrub the figure clean, and start the priming process over.
Problem 2: The brush strokes are visible and chunky.
* Solution: Your paint is too thick. Acrylic paint should be thinned with a small amount of water. If you have already applied a thick layer, let it dry completely, lightly sand it with high-grit sandpaper (1000+), and apply a thinner coat over the top.
Problem 3: The figure looks “flat” or cartoonish.
* Solution: You lack contrast. If the figure looks like a flat sticker, you need to add highlights and shadows. Go back to the “Detailing and Highlighting” step and add those lighter and darker tones to the raised and recessed areas of the figure.
When to seek professional help:
If you are attempting a complex modification—such as full-body sculpting or intricate airbrushing—and you feel overwhelmed, look for local miniature painting groups or online forums. Most hobbyists are happy to share advice. However, remember that this is a hobby about fun and self-expression; there is no “wrong” way to paint a Homie as long as you enjoy the process!
Final Touches and Maintenance
The final phase is protecting your hard work. You have spent hours painting; don’t let it get scratched or damaged.
Finishing Steps:
Once your paint is completely dry (wait at least 12 hours), apply a varnish. A matte varnish is generally best for Homies to preserve that “toy” look, but a satin or gloss finish can be used on specific parts like shoes or jewelry to make them shine. Apply the varnish in two thin coats, allowing it to dry thoroughly between layers.
Quality Check Procedures:
Inspect the figure one last time. Check for “fuzz” from your brush that might have gotten stuck in the paint. If you find any, use your hobby knife to gently scrape it away, then touch up with a tiny bit of paint. Ensure the eyes are symmetrical and the colors are clean.
Maintenance Tips:
Display your Homies away from direct sunlight. UV rays are the enemy of acrylic paint and will cause colors to fade over time. Keep them in a display case or on a shelf where they won’t be handled frequently.
Care Instructions:
If the figure gets dusty, use a soft, dry makeup brush to gently sweep the dust away. Never use harsh chemicals or cleaning agents on the painted surface, as these will strip the varnish and the paint underneath. If you need a deeper clean, a slightly damp microfiber cloth is the safest option.
Enhancement Suggestions:
If you want to take your customization to the next level, consider building a small “diorama” base for your figure. A piece of cardboard painted to look like a sidewalk or a small piece of balsa wood shaped like a crate can turn your single Homie into a complete scene. You can also experiment with “weathering”—using a tiny bit of brown or grey wash to give the figure a gritty, “lived-in” look that matches the original Homie aesthetic.
Customizing Homies is a journey of creativity. Every figure you finish will be better than the last as you develop your steady hand and your eye for color. Enjoy the process, be proud of your work, and don’t be afraid to experiment with wild new styles. Happy painting!
