The Monchhichi Hippers series has taken the world of desk aesthetics by storm. These adorable, thumb-sucking monkeys are designed to “hip” (hang) onto the edges of your computer monitor, picture frames, or shelves. However, because they come in blind boxes, you might end up with a duplicate or a version that doesn’t quite match your aesthetic. This guide will walk you through the rewarding process of customizing your Monchhichi Hipper. Whether you want to add a splash of color to their outfits, give them a unique accessory, or repaint their fur texture, this project allows you to transform a mass-produced toy into a one-of-a-kind collector’s item.
Skill Level: Beginner to Intermediate. You do not need professional sculpting experience, but a steady hand is highly recommended.
Tools List:
* Precision hobby knife (X-Acto)
* Fine-tipped synthetic paintbrushes (000 and 0 sizes)
* Micro-fiber cloth
* Tweezers for small parts
* Masking tape (low tack/painter’s tape)
* Small sanding sponges or fine-grit sandpaper (400-600 grit)
Materials Needed:
* Your Monchhichi Hipper (blind mini figure)
* Acrylic model paints (high-pigment brands like Vallejo or Citadel)
* Matte or Satin acrylic varnish (spray or brush-on)
* Epoxy putty (like Apoxie Sculpt) for adding accessories
* Rubbing alcohol (70% or higher) for surface prep
* Super glue (gel consistency)
Estimated Time and Cost:
* Time: 3–5 hours of active work (plus drying time).
* Cost: $15–$30 depending on whether you already own basic hobby supplies. The figure itself is usually around $10–$15, and the additional paints and tools are reusable for future projects.
This project is perfect for those who want to personalize their workspace. By the end of this guide, you will have a customized Monchhichi that reflects your personal style.
Preparation and Planning
Before you dive into the customization, preparation is the most critical phase. Customizing a figure with a surface area as small as a Monchhichi Hipper requires patience and a clean environment.
Pre-work Requirements:
First, decide on your vision. Do you want to paint your Monchhichi to look like a specific character, or perhaps give it a seasonal outfit? Sketch your design on paper before touching the figure. This prevents “decision paralysis” once you have the brush in your hand.
Safety Precautions:
* Ventilation: If you are using spray varnishes or harsh cleaners, ensure your workspace is well-ventilated or work near an open window.
* Sharp Objects: Always cut away from your body when using hobby knives.
* Chemical Safety: Rubbing alcohol is flammable; keep it away from open flames or heat sources. Wear gloves if you have sensitive skin.
Workspace Setup:
Clear a flat, well-lit surface. A desk lamp with an adjustable neck is essential to minimize shadows. Use a silicone mat or a piece of cardboard as your base to protect your furniture from paint spills. Organize your brushes and paints in a tray so you aren’t searching for supplies while paint is drying on your brush.
Planning Tips:
* Surface Prep: The plastic used for these figures can be slightly oily from the factory. Wipe the figure down with a microfiber cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to remove mold release agents. This ensures the paint sticks properly.
* Test on Scrap: If you are using a new paint color, test it on a piece of scrap plastic first to see how it sits once dried.
* Patience is Key: Never rush the drying time. If you layer paint too quickly, it will become “gummy” and ruin the smooth finish of the figure.
Step 1: Surface Preparation and Masking
The foundation of a professional-looking custom figure is a clean, prepped surface. Because Monchhichi Hippers are small, even the tiniest speck of dust or oil can prevent your paint from adhering properly.
Instructions:
1. Cleaning: Take your Monchhichi figure and gently wipe the entire surface with a lint-free cloth dampened with 70% rubbing alcohol. Focus on the crevices of the fur and the face.
2. Sanding (Optional): If you plan on painting the plastic surface, lightly scuff the areas you intend to paint with a high-grit sanding sponge. This creates “tooth” for the paint to grip. Be very careful not to sand off the fine details of the molded fur.
3. Masking: If your figure has parts you don’t want to paint (like the face, which is usually pre-painted by the manufacturer), use small strips of masking tape to cover these areas. Cut the tape with your hobby knife on a cutting mat to get precise shapes.
4. Priming: For better color vibrancy, apply a very thin layer of acrylic primer. Use a brush to dab it on rather than painting it in long strokes to avoid brush marks.
Tips and Tricks:
* Use a toothpick to press the edges of your masking tape down firmly. This prevents paint from “bleeding” underneath the tape.
* If you are only changing the color of the clothing, you can often skip full priming and just apply thin coats of acrylic paint directly, provided the surface is clean.
Common Mistakes:
* Over-sanding: If you sand too aggressively, you will lose the delicate texture of the Monchhichi’s fur. Use a light touch.
* Ignoring the Joints: Ensure you don’t get paint or primer in the areas where the figure is meant to “hip” (the tail or limbs), as the added thickness might make it difficult to attach to a screen later.
Checkpoint: Ensure the figure is completely dry and free of any debris or stray fibers before moving to the next step. If the tape is lifting, re-apply it now.
Step 2: Customizing and Sculpting (Adding Accessories)
Now that your canvas is prepped, it is time to add personality. If you want your Monchhichi to hold a tiny item or wear a hat, this is the stage to create it.
Instructions:
1. Mixing Putty: Take a small amount of your epoxy putty (equal parts of the two components) and knead it until the color is uniform.
2. Sculpting: Apply the putty to the figure. Use your hobby knife or a toothpick to shape it. For example, if you are making a tiny party hat, roll a cone shape and press it onto the head.
3. Refining: Keep your tools slightly damp with water to prevent the putty from sticking to them. This allows you to smooth out fingerprints and achieve a professional finish.
4. Curing: Let the putty cure according to the package instructions (usually 1–24 hours). Do not move the figure until the putty is rock hard.
Tips and Tricks:
* Start Small: Epoxy putty is heavy. If you add too much, the Monchhichi may become top-heavy and fall off your monitor. Keep accessories minimal and lightweight.
* Use Armatures: If you are sculpting a larger accessory, use a small piece of wire as an “armature” (skeleton) to give the putty support.
Common Mistakes:
* Poor Adhesion: If you don’t clean the plastic well before applying putty, the accessory will pop off once it dries. Ensure the surface is scuffed slightly where the putty will sit.
* Overworking: Stop while the putty is still pliable. If you work it too much, it begins to set and will become crumbly.
Checkpoint: Once the putty is fully cured, tap it gently with your fingernail. It should feel like hard plastic. If it feels soft or tacky, give it more time.
Step 3: Painting and Detailing
This is where your Monchhichi truly comes to life. Using thin, controlled layers is the secret to a factory-quality finish.
Instructions:
1. Base Coating: Start with your lightest colors. Apply thin layers of acrylic paint. It is better to do three thin coats than one thick one.
2. Detailing: Switch to your smallest brush (000) for eyes, buttons, or patterns. If you make a mistake, wipe it away immediately with a damp brush before it sets.
3. Shading: To give the fur depth, use a “wash”—a very watery mix of a darker paint color. Apply it to the crevices of the fur and let it pool slightly. This creates a realistic shadow effect.
4. Highlighting: Once the wash is dry, use a lighter shade of the base color to “dry brush” the tips of the fur. This makes the texture pop.
Tips and Tricks:
* The “Wet Palette”: Use a wet palette (a damp paper towel under parchment paper) to keep your acrylic paints from drying out while you work.
* Steady Hands: Rest your wrists on the table while painting to minimize shaking. If you are having trouble with a straight line, hold your breath for a second while you make the stroke.
Common Mistakes:
* Thick Paint: Using paint straight from the bottle often results in a “clumpy” look. Add a drop of water to your paint on the palette to achieve a milk-like consistency.
* Rushing: Trying to paint the second coat before the first is fully dry will cause the paint to lift and become streaky.
Checkpoint: Look at your figure from a distance. Does the color look even? Are the details crisp? If you see any uneven patches, apply one final thin coat.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even the most experienced customizers run into hitches. Here is how to navigate the most frequent problems:
Problem 1: Paint is peeling off.
* Solution: This usually happens because of oils or dust on the surface. You will have to strip the paint using rubbing alcohol or a mild paint stripper, clean the figure thoroughly, and start the base coat again. Ensure you don’t touch the figure with bare fingers after cleaning.
Problem 2: The figure is top-heavy and won’t stay on the monitor.
* Solution: If your added accessories made the figure too heavy, you need to counterbalance it. You can glue a small, flat metal weight (like a washer) inside the base or tail area if there is room. Alternatively, use a small piece of “museum wax” or “blue tack” to help secure it to your screen edge.
Problem 3: The finish looks “lumpy” or “brush-strokey.”
* Solution: Your paint was likely too thick. You can gently sand the dry, lumpy areas with a very fine-grit sanding sponge to smooth them out, then apply a final, very thin coat of properly diluted paint.
When to Seek Professional Help:
If you have accidentally damaged the structure of the figure (e.g., snapped off an arm), you can try to repair it with super glue, but if the break is clean and structural, you may need a specialized epoxy resin. If you are unhappy with the paint job, remember that acrylic paint is forgiving—you can almost always paint over it and try again!
Final Touches and Maintenance
You are in the home stretch! The final steps are all about protecting your hard work and ensuring your Monchhichi remains a staple of your desk setup.
Finishing Steps:
Once your paint is completely dry (wait at least 12 hours), you must seal your work. Use a matte or satin varnish to protect the paint from dust, UV light, and accidental scratches. Apply the varnish in thin, light coats. If you are using a spray varnish, hold the can at least 8–10 inches away from the figure to prevent “fogging” or dripping.
Quality Check Procedures:
Examine the figure under bright, natural light. Check for any missed spots, especially in the deep crevices of the fur. Ensure the varnish has been applied evenly—it should have a consistent sheen across the entire surface. If you see any white, chalky spots, the varnish might have been applied too thick or in a humid environment; a light second coat usually fixes this.
Maintenance Tips:
* Dusting: Use a soft-bristled makeup brush to dust your Monchhichi occasionally. Avoid using wet cloths, as moisture can eventually degrade the paint or varnish over time.
* Sunlight: Keep your figure away from direct, harsh sunlight. Even the best paints and varnishes can fade or yellow after long-term exposure to UV rays.
Care Instructions:
Your Monchhichi is now a display piece. While it is durable, it is not a toy for rough play. If you move it between monitors, handle it by the main body rather than pulling on any sculpted accessories you added.
Enhancement Suggestions:
If you want to take your customization to the next level, consider adding “flocking” powder to the fur to give it a fuzzy, realistic texture. You can also add tiny magnets to the hands of the Monchhichi so it can “hold” paperclips or other small metal items, adding a functional element to your decorative piece.
Congratulations on completing your Monchhichi Hipper custom! You’ve turned a simple blind box figure into a piece of art that is uniquely yours. Display it proudly on your monitor, and don’t be afraid to start on your next one!
