Customizing Pokémon figures—often called “re-painting” or “bashing”—is a rewarding hobby that transforms mass-produced plastic toys into unique, one-of-a-kind works of art. Whether you want to give a standard Pikachu a “shiny” color palette, add battle damage to a Charizard, or sculpt entirely new accessories using epoxy putty, this guide will walk you through the professional techniques used by hobbyists worldwide.
Skill Level: Beginner to Intermediate. No prior artistic training is required, but a steady hand and patience are essential.
Tools List:
* Precision Hobby Knife (X-Acto): For trimming mold lines.
* Fine-Point Detail Brushes: Sizes 000, 0, and 2.
* Sculpting Tools: Metal clay tools for shaping putty.
* Fine-Grit Sandpaper: 400, 800, and 1200 grit.
* Palette: A plastic tray or wet palette for paint.
* Masking Tape: Low-tack painter’s tape.
Materials Needed:
* The Figure: Ideally a PVC or vinyl Pokémon figure.
* Acrylic Paints: High-quality model paints (e.g., Vallejo or Citadel).
* Primer: Spray primer (gray or white).
* Epoxy Putty: (e.g., Milliput or Apoxie Sculpt) if doing structural changes.
* Sealer/Varnish: Matte or gloss spray finish.
* Isopropyl Alcohol: For cleaning surfaces.
Estimated Time and Cost:
* Time: 6–10 hours spread over 3 days (due to drying times).
* Cost: $30–$60, assuming you are purchasing basic supplies for the first time. Many tools are reusable for future projects.
Preparation and Planning
Before you touch your figure with a brush, proper preparation is the difference between a professional finish and a sticky, peeling mess.
Pre-work Requirements:
Begin by thoroughly cleaning your Pokémon figure. Factory-produced figures often have a layer of mold-release agent (silicone oil) on their surface. Use a soft toothbrush and warm soapy water to scrub the figure gently. Once dry, wipe it down with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol. This ensures the primer adheres perfectly to the plastic.
Safety Precautions:
* Ventilation: Always work in a well-ventilated area, especially when using spray primers or varnishes. These chemicals can be toxic if inhaled in confined spaces.
* Eye/Skin Protection: Wear safety glasses when cutting with hobby knives. If you have sensitive skin, wear nitrile gloves while mixing epoxy putty.
* Blade Safety: Always cut away from your body. A dull blade is more dangerous than a sharp one because it requires more force and is prone to slipping.
Workspace Setup:
Dedicate a flat, well-lit surface to your project. Use a self-healing cutting mat to protect your table. Use a desk lamp with a “daylight” bulb; standard yellow bulbs can distort your perception of color, leading to mismatched paint jobs. Organize your materials in small containers so you aren’t hunting for brushes mid-stroke.
Planning Tips:
Don’t jump in blindly. Sketch your color scheme on a piece of paper first. If you are painting a specific Pokémon, look up “official artwork” to ensure you understand the color placement. If you are doing a custom design, create a “color map.” Consider the “prime” or “base” color of the figure. If the figure is dark (like Umbreon), you will need a white primer to make lighter colors pop. If it is light (like Togepi), a gray primer is usually sufficient.
Step 1: Surface Preparation and Priming
The foundation of your customization is the primer. Without it, acrylic paint will bead up or scratch off the slick plastic surface.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. Removing Imperfections: Use your hobby knife to gently scrape away “mold lines”—the thin raised seams left over from the factory injection process. Use 400-grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots or stubborn seams.
2. Structural Additions: If you are adding parts (like a hat or a scarf), mix your epoxy putty according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply it to the figure, shaping it with wet sculpting tools. Let it cure fully—usually 12 to 24 hours.
3. Priming: Shake your spray primer can for at least two minutes. Hold the can 8–10 inches from the figure. Use short, sweeping bursts. Do not hold the button down in one spot, or the paint will pool and obscure the figure’s detail.
4. Drying: Allow the primer to dry for at least four hours. It should look dull and uniform.
Important Tips:
* If you miss a spot, do not spray more. Wait for it to dry and do a light second coat.
* If the primer looks “fuzzy,” you held the can too far away, causing the paint to dry in the air before hitting the figure.
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
* Over-priming: Applying too much primer will “fill in” the fine details like eyes or claws. Keep the layers thin.
* Ignoring the Bottom: Don’t forget the base! If your figure stands on a plastic disc, prime that too.
Visual Description:
The figure should transition from a shiny, oily plastic look to a flat, matte gray or white. All seams should be invisible, and the surface should look like a blank canvas.
Checkpoint: Ensure the primer is completely dry to the touch. If it feels tacky, wait longer. If it looks smooth and matte, you are ready to paint.
Step 2: Base Coating and Layering
Now that you have a blank canvas, it is time to bring your Pokémon to life with color.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. Thin Your Paints: Never use paint straight from the bottle. Place a drop on your palette and mix in a tiny bit of water until it reaches the consistency of skim milk.
2. Apply Base Colors: Paint the largest areas first. Use a wider brush for the body and save the fine brushes for the eyes and patterns.
3. Layering: You will likely need two to three thin coats of paint to achieve full coverage. Do not try to get full coverage in one thick coat; that creates brush strokes and globs.
4. Drying Between Layers: Wait 15–20 minutes between coats. If you paint over wet acrylic, you will “pull” the previous layer up, creating a patchy mess.
Important Tips:
* The “Wet Palette” Trick: Put a damp paper towel in a container and place parchment paper on top. Your paints will stay wet for hours, preventing waste.
* Color Matching: If you are trying to match a specific Pokémon color (like “Pikachu Yellow”), mix your paints first. Test the color on a piece of scrap plastic and let it dry; paint often dries darker than it looks when wet.
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
* Heavy-handedness: Trying to rush the process leads to thick, uneven paint. Patience is your greatest tool.
* Wrong Brush Size: Using a large brush for small details (like the pupils) will lead to over-painting.
Visual Description:
The figure should start to look vibrant. The colors should be solid and opaque, with no primer showing through. The edges between different color sections should be clean and crisp.
Checkpoint: Check the figure under a bright light. Rotate it 360 degrees. If you see any primer peeking through or any “streaky” sections, apply one final thin coat.
Step 3: Detailing, Shading, and Sealing
This is where your Pokémon gains depth and personality.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. Detailing: Use your size 000 brush to add the eyes, mouth, and any intricate patterns (like the spots on an Eevee). Use a steady hand—rest your wrists on the table for stability.
2. Shading (Washing): Mix a very dark version of your base color with a lot of water (a “wash”). Apply this to the crevices and recesses (like between toes or under arms). The wash will flow into the cracks, creating natural shadows.
3. Highlighting: Use a lighter version of your base color to paint the highest points of the figure (the tops of ears, the nose, etc.). This makes the figure “pop.”
4. Sealing: Once the paint is fully cured (wait 24 hours), spray the entire figure with a matte varnish to protect the paint from chips and UV light.
Important Tips:
* Eye Focus: If you struggle with eyes, use a toothpick to apply a tiny dot of white paint. It is much easier to control than a brush.
* Varnish Choice: Use a matte varnish for most of the figure, but consider a gloss varnish just for the eyes—it makes them look “alive” and reflective.
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
* Sealing Too Early: If you seal before the paint is 100% dry, the finish can turn cloudy or “foggy.”
* Too Much Wash: If you get a “water ring” or too much darkness from the wash, quickly dab it away with a clean, dry brush.
Visual Description:
The figure now has depth. The shadows in the crevices make it look three-dimensional rather than flat. The eyes are bright and focused. The varnish provides a consistent, professional sheen.
Checkpoint: Ensure the varnish has cured for at least 6 hours. If the figure is sticky, it is not ready for display.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even experienced customizers run into trouble. Don’t panic; most mistakes are reversible.
Problem 1: Paint is peeling or scratching off.
* Solution: This usually means the figure wasn’t cleaned well enough or the primer didn’t cure. If it’s already sealed, you may need to strip the paint using a gentle plastic-safe paint stripper and start over. Prevention is key: always clean with alcohol.
Problem 2: The paint looks “chunky” or has visible brush strokes.
* Solution: You didn’t thin your paints enough. Sand the affected area gently with 1200-grit sandpaper, wipe away the dust, and apply a thin, properly watered-down coat of paint.
Problem 3: The figure looks “dusty” after varnishing.
* Solution: This is often caused by spraying in high humidity or holding the can too far away. If the texture is fine, a second, lighter coat of varnish applied in a controlled environment can sometimes smooth it out. If the texture is rough, you may need to strip it.
When to seek professional help:
If you are working on a rare, expensive, or vintage “grail” figure, practice on a cheap “common” figure first. If you make a mistake that involves melting the plastic (usually due to improper chemical use), the figure may be permanently damaged. If you aren’t sure about a chemical’s effect on your specific figure, test it on the bottom of the base first.
Final Touches and Maintenance
Your Pokémon figure is now a custom masterpiece. To keep it looking its best, follow these final steps.
Finishing Steps:
Check the bottom of the base. If you have paint residue, clean it off with a damp cloth for a professional look. You can also add a small piece of felt to the bottom of the base to prevent it from scratching your display shelf.
Quality Check Procedures:
Perform a “drop test” (not a literal drop!). Hold the figure at eye level and rotate it under different lighting conditions. Check for “missed spots” in the armpits, under the chin, or between the legs. These are the most common areas to accidentally skip.
Maintenance Tips:
* Dusting: Use a soft, dry makeup brush to dust your figure once a month. Do not use chemical cleaners, as they may react with your varnish.
* Sunlight: Keep your figures out of direct sunlight. Even high-quality acrylics and varnishes can fade or yellow over time when exposed to UV radiation.
* Temperature: Store your figures in a cool, dry place. Extreme heat can make the plastic soft or cause the paint to become tacky.
Care Instructions:
If you take your figure to conventions or trade it, wrap it in acid-free tissue paper and place it in a sturdy box. Never put painted figures in a plastic bag, as the friction can rub the paint off the high points.
Enhancement Suggestions:
Once you’ve mastered the basics, consider these upgrades:
* Base Decor: Use static grass, fake rocks, or clear resin to create a “biome” base that matches the Pokémon’s habitat (e.g., a swamp for Bulbasaur).
* Custom Stands: Use clear acrylic rods to create a “jumping” or “flying” effect for your Pokémon.
* Photography: Learn basic toy photography techniques. A good photo of your custom figure on social media is the best way to share your work with the community!
By following this guide, you have transformed a simple toy into a unique character. Remember, every master artist started with their first, slightly imperfect figure. Keep practicing, stay patient, and most importantly, have fun with your Pokémon!
