Customizing your Warhammer 40k figures—often referred to as “kitbashing” or “converting”—is the heart and soul of the hobby. It transforms mass-produced plastic into a unique narrative piece that reflects your specific vision of the grim darkness of the 41st millennium. Whether you are adding trophies to a Chaos Space Marine, giving a Guardsman a unique pose, or creating an entirely new character from spare parts, this guide will walk you through the process.
This project is suitable for hobbyists of all skill levels, though it assumes you have a basic grasp of assembling standard models. You don’t need to be a master sculptor; you just need patience and a steady hand.
Essential Tools List:
* Hobby Knife (X-Acto): With a sharp #11 blade.
* Side Cutters (Sprue Cutters): For removing parts from the plastic frame.
* Plastic Cement: (e.g., Tamiya Extra Thin) to chemically fuse plastic.
* Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate): For resin, metal, or non-plastic attachments.
* Needle Files: For smoothing rough edges.
* Green Stuff (Epoxy Putty): For gap filling and sculpting.
* Pin Vise (Hand Drill): For pinning heavy joints.
* Metal Paperclips: For structural reinforcement.
Materials Needed:
* Spare bits (heads, weapons, armor plates).
* Fine-grit sandpaper (400–800 grit).
* Cutting mat.
* Blue-tack (for dry-fitting).
Estimated Time and Cost:
A simple conversion can take 1–2 hours, while a complex kitbash might span several days. The cost is relatively low, as much of the value comes from your “bits box”—the collection of spare parts you accumulate over time. Expect to spend $20–$50 on tools if you are starting from scratch, plus the cost of the model itself.
Preparation and Planning
Before you touch your hobby knife, you must plan. Converting is a subtractive and additive process; once you cut a piece of plastic, there is no “undo” button.
Pre-work Requirements:
Start by cleaning your models. If they are already assembled, look for mold lines—the faint raised ridges left by the manufacturing process. Removing these is crucial, as they will stand out like a sore thumb after painting. If you are using old bits, soak them in warm soapy water to remove any release agents or residual paint.
Safety Precautions:
Hobby knives are incredibly sharp. Always cut away from your fingers. When using super glue, work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes. If you use a pin vise, keep your fingers clear of the drill path. Dust from sanding plastic or resin can be harmful; consider wearing a dust mask if you are doing heavy filing.
Workspace Setup:
Clear a flat, well-lit surface. A hobby mat is essential to protect your table and provide a non-slip surface. Keep your tools organized; a cluttered desk leads to lost parts. Ensure you have high-intensity lighting—preferably a daylight-balanced LED lamp—to help you see tiny details and mold lines.
Planning Tips:
Don’t just glue random parts together. Sketch your idea on paper first. Think about the “silhouette” of the model. Does it look balanced? Does it fit the lore of your army? Use Blue-tack to dry-fit parts before applying glue. This allows you to test poses and proportions without committing. Ask yourself: “Does this pose look natural?” A common pitfall is creating a pose that defies gravity or physics. If the figure looks like it’s about to tip over, adjust the stance. Finally, keep your “bits box” organized by category (heads, weapons, backpacks) to save time during the planning phase.
Step 1: Deconstruction and Cleaning
The first major step is preparing your components. Whether you are cutting parts off a new model or “cannibalizing” an old one, precision is key.
Instructions:
1. Removing from Sprue: Use your side cutters to snip the part away from the plastic frame. Do not cut flush against the part; leave a tiny nub of plastic. This prevents you from accidentally gouging the surface of the model.
2. Trimming Nubs: Use your hobby knife to carefully shave away the remaining plastic nub. Use a slicing motion rather than a hacking motion.
3. Mold Line Removal: Hold your knife at a 90-degree angle to the surface and gently scrape along the mold line. It will turn into a fine white powder. Smooth this out with a needle file.
4. Dry Fitting: Before any glue touches the parts, use a small ball of Blue-tack to hold the parts together. Check the angle of the limbs and the orientation of the head.
Tips and Tricks:
If you need to cut a piece of plastic to fit a weird angle, cut it slightly larger than you think you need, then file it down gradually. You can always remove more material, but you cannot add it back once it’s gone.
Common Mistakes:
* Cutting too close: This often results in a “divot” in the plastic that is difficult to fix.
* Ignoring mold lines: These are the biggest giveaway of a poorly finished model. Spend the extra time here; it pays off when you reach the painting stage.
Visual Description:
The part should look clean, with no jagged edges or raised lines. When held up to the light, the surface should be smooth and uniform.
Checkpoint:
Are all parts trimmed and mold lines removed? If yes, you are ready to move to structural assembly.
Step 2: Structural Assembly and Pinning
Now that the components are clean, it is time to assemble them into a cohesive figure. For conversions, standard plastic glue might not be enough if you are changing the weight distribution of the model.
Instructions:
1. Pinning: If you are attaching a heavy piece (like a large power hammer or a metal wing) to a small joint, you must pin it. Drill a small hole into both surfaces using your pin vise. Insert a cut piece of paperclip into one hole with a drop of super glue, then fit the other part onto the pin.
2. Plastic Cement Application: For standard plastic-to-plastic joints, use Tamiya Extra Thin. Apply it to one side, press the parts together, and hold for 30 seconds. The glue melts the plastic, creating a literal weld.
3. Gap Filling: If your kitbash leaves a gap between parts, do not leave it. Take a small amount of Green Stuff (mix the yellow and blue parts until it is a uniform green), roll it into a thin “sausage,” press it into the gap, and smooth it out with a damp sculpting tool.
Tips and Tricks:
When using Green Stuff, keep your tools slightly wet with water. This prevents the putty from sticking to the tool instead of the model. If you are building an aggressive pose, ensure the feet are securely attached to the base using plastic cement for a permanent bond.
Common Mistakes:
* Using too much glue: Plastic cement can melt detail if it spills onto the surface. Use the applicator brush to apply only what is needed.
* Rushing the drying time: Let the model sit for at least an hour before you start sculpting or priming.
Visual Description:
The joints should be tight, with no visible seams or gaps. If you used Green Stuff, the transition between the new piece and the original model should look seamless.
Checkpoint:
Is the model sturdy? Give it a gentle shake. If parts rattle or feel loose, re-apply glue or reinforce the pin.
Step 3: Detailing and Sculpting
This is where your figure gains character. You are adding the “narrative” elements—pouches, purity seals, battle damage, or custom armor plates.
Instructions:
1. Adding Details: Glue your smaller accessories (holsters, grenades, knives) onto the model. Use tweezers to place these if they are very small.
2. Sculpting Texture: If your conversion left a flat area where there should be armor, use Green Stuff to sculpt ridges or rivets. You can use the tip of your hobby knife to press tiny indentations into the putty to simulate bolts or rivets.
3. Battle Damage: Use your hobby knife to carve shallow gouges into the armor to represent bullet holes or sword scratches. Do this carefully—less is more. A few well-placed scratches look more realistic than a model covered in deep gashes.
Tips and Tricks:
Look at reference photos of real-world military gear. Where do soldiers put their pouches? Where would armor be most likely to get scratched? Logic makes for a better-looking model. If you are sculpting, work in layers. Do the base shape, let it cure, then add the fine details on top.
Common Mistakes:
* Over-detailing: Adding too many pouches or trinkets can make the model look cluttered and “busy.” Let the model breathe.
* Forgetting the base: A cool model on a plain, flat base looks unfinished. Add a bit of texture paste or sand to the base to match the theme of your army.
Visual Description:
The figure should look like a cohesive whole, not just a bunch of parts glued together. The details should appear as though they belong there naturally.
Checkpoint:
Does the model tell a story? If it looks like a character with a history, you have succeeded.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even the best hobbyists run into trouble. Here is how to handle the most common headaches.
Problem 1: The glue won’t set.
If using super glue, it may be old or the surface might be oily. Clean the surfaces with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and try fresh glue. If using plastic cement, ensure you aren’t using too little; the solvent needs to react with the plastic.
Problem 2: The Green Stuff is too sticky.
You likely didn’t mix it enough or it’s too warm. Keep your fingers and tools wet with water. If it remains sticky, let it sit for 10 minutes to “set up” before you start sculpting.
Problem 3: The model is unbalanced and keeps falling over.
This is common with dynamic poses. Glue a small washer or a piece of lead weight underneath the base to lower the center of gravity. If the model is top-heavy, you may need to reposition the feet to widen the stance.
When to Seek Professional Help:
If you have accidentally cut yourself deeply, seek medical attention immediately. If you are working on a very expensive, high-end resin model and are unsure about a major cut, don’t risk it. Practice on a cheaper plastic “test” model first. There is no shame in asking for advice on hobby forums—the Warhammer community is generally very supportive of new converters.
Final Touches and Maintenance
You have built a masterpiece. Now, ensure it stays that way.
Finishing Steps:
Perform a final “quality check.” Look at the model from every angle. Use a fine-grit sanding stick to remove any final rough spots. Once you are satisfied, give the model a gentle wash in warm, soapy water to remove any finger oils or dust. This ensures the primer will adhere perfectly.
Quality Check Procedures:
Hold the model upside down. Does anything fall off? If so, re-glue it. Check the balance one last time. Ensure that all the “narrative” elements (the bits you added) are securely fastened.
Maintenance Tips:
Warhammer figures are fragile. When transporting them, use a dedicated foam-lined case. Avoid “clanking” models together; even painted surfaces can chip if handled roughly. If a piece breaks off, don’t panic. Keep your plastic cement and super glue handy for quick field repairs.
Care Instructions:
Keep your models away from extreme heat (like a car dashboard in summer), as this can warp plastic. If they get dusty, use a soft-bristled makeup brush to gently sweep the dust away. Avoid using water or cleaning agents, as these can damage the paint job.
Enhancement Suggestions:
As you grow more confident, try experimenting with “magnetizing.” By drilling small holes and inserting tiny neodymium magnets into weapon joints, you can swap out weapons on the fly. This is a game-changer for competitive play. Furthermore, consider learning to cast your own bits using silicone molds and resin. This allows you to replicate your favorite custom parts for an entire squad.
Customizing your Warhammer 40k figures is a journey, not a destination. Every model you build makes you a better artist and a more knowledgeable hobbyist. Embrace the process, learn from your mistakes, and most importantly, have fun creating your own slice of the 41st millennium. Your army should be as unique as your imagination allows. Happy hobbying!
