Customizing WWE action figures—often referred to in the community as “fig-bashing” or “customizing”—is an exhilarating hobby that blends artistic expression with a love for professional wrestling history. Whether you want to recreate a specific iconic look from a pay-per-view event, modernize a retro figure, or create a completely original character, this guide will provide you with the professional-grade techniques to elevate your collection.
This project is suitable for beginners, though it requires patience and a steady hand. You do not need formal art training, but you should be comfortable working with small, intricate parts.
Complete Tools and Materials List:
- The Base Figure: A WWE action figure (Mattel Elite, Ultimate Edition, or Basic lines work best).
- Dremel Rotary Tool: With various sanding bits for removing plastic.
- X-Acto Knife/Precision Hobby Knife: With a variety of blade shapes (especially #11).
- Paints: High-quality acrylic model paints (brands like Vallejo, Citadel, or Testors).
- Brushes: Fine-tip synthetic brushes (sizes 0, 00, and 000).
- Sealant: Matte or Gloss clear coat spray (Mr. Super Clear or Krylon).
- Epoxy Sculpt/Apoxie Sculpt: For adding sculpted details like hair or trunks.
- Acetone/Nail Polish Remover: For removing factory paint.
- Heat Gun or Hairdryer: Essential for “popping” joints safely.
- Sandpaper: Assorted grits (400, 800, 1200).
Estimated Time and Cost:
- Time: A basic paint swap takes 2–4 hours. A full custom sculpt and paint job can take 10–15 hours over a weekend.
- Cost: If you already have tools, the materials (paint and sculpting medium) will cost roughly $30–$50 per project, excluding the base figure.
Preparation and Planning
Before you touch your figure, preparation is the most critical phase. Many beginners dive in, only to realize halfway through that the joints won’t move or the paint isn’t adhering.
Pre-work Requirements
Start by researching your subject. If you are recreating a specific wrestler, find high-resolution photos of their gear from multiple angles. Sketch out the design on paper, noting color schemes and specific logos. If you are mixing parts from different figures (part-swapping), ensure that the torso joints are compatible; Mattel Elite figures generally swap easily, but mixing different lines can lead to loose joints.
Safety Precautions
Working with hobby knives and rotary tools carries inherent risks. Always cut away from your body. Wear safety goggles when using a Dremel, as small plastic shards fly at high velocities. Use a respirator or work in a well-ventilated area when using spray sealants or heavy solvents like acetone.
Workspace Setup
Your workspace should be well-lit—ideally with a daylight LED desk lamp. Use a self-healing cutting mat to protect your table. Keep a small container of water for rinsing brushes and a paper towel for dabbing. Organize your workspace so that your “wet” work (painting) is separated from your “dry” work (sanding/sculpting) to prevent dust contamination.
Planning Tips
Don’t rush the disassembly. If a part feels like it’s going to snap, stop. Heat is your best friend. Submerge the figure in hot (not boiling) water for 60 seconds to soften the plastic. This makes joints pliable and prevents breakage. Remember: A “custom” is only as good as the planning behind it. If you are painting a dark color over a light base, you will need a primer; otherwise, the colors will look muddy.
Step 1: Disassembly and Surface Preparation
To create a professional custom, you must first break the figure down into its modular parts. This allows you to paint intricate areas like the inner thighs or the back of the neck without risking paint transfer onto other parts.
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Heating: Use your heat gun or a bowl of hot water to soften the plastic. Focus the heat on the torso, hip joints, and limb sockets.
- Popping Joints: Carefully pull the limbs away from the torso. If they resist, apply more heat. Do not force them, or you may snap the plastic peg inside the joint.
- Paint Removal: If the factory paint is too thick or you need a clean slate, dip a cotton swab in 100% pure acetone and gently rub away the factory tattoos or gear logos. Caution: Do not leave acetone on the plastic for too long, as it will melt the material.
- Sanding: Use your Dremel or sandpaper to smooth out any areas where you will be adding new sculpted details. This “scuffing” also helps the new paint adhere to the surface.
Tips and Tricks
- Labeling: Use a muffin tin or small labeled bags to keep track of which arm/leg belongs to which torso. It sounds simple, but it’s easy to lose track.
- The “Boiling Water” Trick: If you don’t have a heat gun, a mug of microwaved water is perfect. Just be careful not to burn your fingers.
Common Mistakes
- Over-sanding: Removing too much plastic will make the joints loose. Sand only what is necessary to remove seams or prep for sculpt.
- Acetone Overexposure: Leaving a piece soaked in acetone will turn the plastic “gummy.” Wipe, dry, and assess.
Checkpoint
- The figure is fully disassembled.
- The plastic is clean, dry, and scuffed.
- All joints move freely without resistance.
Step 2: Sculpting and Custom Detailing
This is where your figure truly transforms from a standard toy into a unique character. Whether you are adding knee pads, new hair, or intricate chest armor, sculpting adds the dimension that makes a figure “pop.”
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Mixing the Medium: If using a two-part epoxy sculpt, mix equal parts of the resin and hardener until the color is consistent. You have about 60–90 minutes of working time before it hardens.
- Application: Apply the sculpt in small amounts. Use a dental pick or a sculpting tool dipped in water to smooth the surface.
- Detailing: If you are adding hair, use the tip of a hobby knife to create fine texture lines. For straps or belts, roll the epoxy into a thin “snake” and flatten it against the figure.
- Curing: Let the sculpt cure for at least 24 hours. Do not attempt to paint while the epoxy is still “tacky.”
Tips and Tricks
- Moisture is Key: Keep your tools slightly damp. This prevents the epoxy from sticking to your tools and pulling the sculpt off the figure.
- Less is More: It is easier to add more material than it is to grind off excess cured epoxy. Start thin.
Common Mistakes
- Uneven Surface: Failing to smooth the epoxy results in a “lumpy” figure. Take your time to polish the sculpt while it’s wet.
- Ignoring Symmetry: When sculpting gear, constantly rotate the figure to ensure both sides look balanced.
Checkpoint
- The sculpt is fully hardened.
- The details match your original reference photos.
- No excess epoxy is interfering with the articulation points.
Step 3: Painting and Artistic Finishing
Painting is the most rewarding part of the process. A clean, smooth paint job is the hallmark of a professional customizer.
Step-by-Step Instructions
- Priming: If you’ve made significant changes, apply a very thin layer of primer. This ensures your colors remain vibrant.
- Base Coating: Apply thin layers of your chosen colors. Never try to get full coverage in one coat; you will end up with brush strokes and thick, uneven blobs. Three thin coats are always better than one thick one.
- Detailing: Use your 000 brush for logos, tattoos, or facial features. If you make a mistake, wipe it immediately with a damp brush.
- Sealing: Once the paint is dry, apply a matte or gloss clear coat. This protects the paint from chipping during play or posing.
Tips and Tricks
- Paint Consistency: Your paint should have the consistency of whole milk. If it’s too thick, add a drop of water.
- The “Joint Gap” Rule: Avoid painting directly onto the friction points of the joints. Paint rubbing on paint will lead to peeling. Mask these areas with painter’s tape before painting.
Common Mistakes
- Rushing the Dry Time: Trying to paint over wet paint will lift the base layer, ruining the finish.
- Thick Paint: Thick paint hides the sculpted details. Always thin your paints.
Checkpoint
- The paint is opaque and smooth.
- The sealant has been applied and is fully cured.
- The figure looks like your reference design.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even the most experienced customizers run into walls. Here is how to handle the most common frustrations.
Problem 1: Paint Rubbing Off at Joints
This happens when you paint directly on the ball-joint.
* Solution: Sand the joint ball down slightly to create a “clearance” space before painting. After painting, use a clear matte sealer specifically designed for flexible parts, or simply leave the friction area unpainted.
Problem 2: Sticky/Tacky Sculpt
If your epoxy didn’t cure after 24 hours, it means the ratio was incorrect or it wasn’t mixed thoroughly.
* Solution: Unfortunately, you must scrape it off and start over. Always ensure you are mixing by volume accurately.
Problem 3: “Ghosting” or Smudged Logos
Trying to paint tiny logos by hand can be difficult.
* Solution: Use “Waterslide Decals.” You can print your own designs on decal paper, apply them to the figure, and seal them over. This gives a factory-perfect look that hand-painting cannot replicate.
When to Seek Professional Help
If you are dealing with a rare, expensive, or vintage figure and you are unsure of the mechanics, do not force it. Seek advice on community forums like the “WrestlingFigs” boards. There is a massive wealth of knowledge in the community, and someone has likely attempted your specific custom before. Don’t be afraid to ask for advice before you make a move you might regret.
Final Touches and Maintenance
You’ve reached the final stage! Your custom WWE figure is nearly ready for the display shelf or the “ring.”
Finishing Steps
Once the final sealant has cured (usually 24 hours), reassemble the figure. Use your hair dryer to warm the sockets one last time to make the parts pop back together easily. Check the range of motion. If a joint feels a bit stiff, work it slowly back and forth to break in the new layer of paint.
Quality Check Procedures
Perform a “pose test.” Put the figure in a signature move. If the paint cracks or flakes, you have identified a high-friction area. You can touch this up with a tiny dab of paint and a fine brush. If the figure stands well and the paint looks smooth under direct light, you have succeeded.
Maintenance Tips
- Display Environment: Keep your figures out of direct sunlight. UV rays will yellow the plastic and fade your custom paint job over time.
- Dusting: Use a soft, dry makeup brush to dust your figures. Avoid using water or cleaning chemicals, as they can reactivate or strip the sealants.
- Handling: If you plan to play with the figure, expect some wear and tear. Customs are primarily designed for display. If you handle them often, consider adding an extra coat of high-quality sealant.
Enhancement Suggestions
To take your custom to the next level, consider adding accessories. You can craft championship belts out of vinyl, create fabric capes, or build a diorama base for the figure to stand on. The customization process doesn’t end with the figure itself. By creating a unique environment or narrative for your character, you turn a simple piece of plastic into a centerpiece of your collection.
Remember, every custom you make teaches you something new. Your first figure might not be perfect, but your tenth one will look like it came straight from a professional factory. Embrace the learning curve, enjoy the process, and most importantly, have fun bringing your favorite wrestling moments to life!
