Customizing WWE action figures—often referred to in the collecting community as “fig-swapping” or “kit-bashing”—is an exhilarating hobby that transforms mass-produced toys into one-of-a-kind masterpieces. Whether you want to recreate a specific iconic attire from a legendary Pay-Per-View or build a custom superstar that represents your own wrestling persona, this guide will provide the foundation you need to get started.
This project is categorized as Intermediate in terms of skill. While beginners can certainly succeed, the process requires patience, steady hands, and an eye for detail. You do not need to be a master sculptor, but you must be comfortable handling small tools and precision paints.
Complete Tools List:
* Heat Source: A hair dryer or a bowl of hot water (for loosening joints).
* Precision Cutting: An X-Acto knife with #11 blades.
* Sculpting: Epoxy putty (such as Aves Apoxie Sculpt).
* Painting: High-quality acrylic model paints (Vallejo or Citadel recommended).
* Brushes: A set of fine-detail synthetic brushes (0, 00, and 000 sizes).
* Adhesives: Super glue (cyanoacrylate) and plastic cement.
* Finishing: Matte and Gloss acrylic sealers (spray or brush-on).
Materials Needed:
* Donor WWE action figures (Mattel Elite or Ultimate Edition series are best).
* Sandpaper (various grits: 400, 800, and 1200).
* Masking tape (Tamiya tape is best for crisp lines).
* Rubbing alcohol (for surface cleaning).
Time and Cost:
For a standard custom, expect to spend 6 to 10 hours of active work, spread over a few days to allow for drying times. The cost is relatively low, typically ranging from $30 to $60 per project, depending on the cost of the donor figures and the variety of paints you choose to purchase.
Preparation and Planning
Before you take a blade to your favorite figure, preparation is the most critical phase. Many beginners rush into the “cutting” phase, only to realize halfway through that the joints don’t align or the color scheme clashes.
Pre-work Requirements:
Start by researching your subject. If you are recreating an existing wrestler, gather high-resolution photos from multiple angles. If you are creating an original character, sketch out the color palette and gear design on paper. Having a “blueprint” prevents mid-project indecision.
Safety Precautions:
Safety is paramount. You will be working with sharp blades and chemical sealers. Always work in a well-ventilated area, preferably near an open window or with a fan running. Wear safety goggles when cutting plastic, as small shards can fly unexpectedly. If you are using spray sealers, wear a dust mask or respirator.
Workspace Setup:
Clear a dedicated table. A cutting mat is essential to protect your surfaces. Ensure you have excellent lighting—an adjustable desk lamp is perfect for highlighting small details. Organize your tools into a tray; losing a tiny hand or boot piece is a rite of passage for every customizer, but it’s one you want to avoid.
Planning Tips:
* Compatibility: Mattel Elite figures are generally modular, meaning heads and parts can be swapped between figures within the same scale. However, always check the “ball-joint” size. Older figures may not fit newer molds.
* The “Boil and Pop” Method: Never force a joint. If a limb is stuck, use heat to soften the plastic.
* Documentation: Take photos of the figure before you disassemble it. This acts as a map for reassembly, especially regarding which internal pins and hinges belong to which limb. Preparation is the bridge between a “toy” and a “collectible.”
Step 1: Disassembly and Surface Preparation
The first major step is the “Boil and Pop.” This is the process of safely taking the figure apart without damaging the plastic pegs.
Instructions:
1. Heat the Joints: Submerge the figure’s limbs (or the entire figure) in hot—not boiling—water for about 60 to 90 seconds. The heat makes the plastic pliable.
2. Remove Parts: Gently pull the head, arms, and legs from the torso. If they resist, apply more heat. Do not twist aggressively, or you may snap the plastic peg inside the joint.
3. Sanding: Once disassembled, use 400-grit sandpaper to remove any factory paint or “mold lines”—the thin raised lines of plastic left over from the manufacturing process.
4. Cleaning: Wipe all parts down with rubbing alcohol. This removes finger oils and factory release agents, ensuring that your primer and paint will bond correctly to the plastic.
Tips and Tricks:
* Use a hairdryer for spot-heating if you don’t want to soak the entire figure.
* If a peg breaks inside a socket, don’t panic. You can drill it out with a tiny hobby drill bit or use a heated paperclip to pull the remnant out.
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
* Overheating: If the plastic becomes shiny or starts to deform, it is too hot. Stop immediately and let it cool.
* Rushing: If you feel resistance, apply more heat. Forcing a joint is the fastest way to ruin a custom.
Visual Description:
Your workspace should now be filled with disembodied limbs and heads. The plastic should look dull and scuffed from the sanding—this is good! A slightly textured surface holds paint much better than smooth, factory-finished plastic.
Checkpoint:
Ensure all pegs are intact and the surfaces are smooth to the touch. If you feel any “burrs” or uneven spots, sand them down now.
Step 2: Sculpting and Structural Modification
Now that your figure is a blank canvas, it’s time to add unique elements like kneepads, hair, or championship belts using epoxy putty.
Instructions:
1. Mix the Putty: Take equal parts of your Aves Apoxie Sculpt and knead them together until the color is uniform. You usually have about an hour of “working time” before it starts to harden.
2. Apply and Shape: Use a sculpting tool or a dampened toothpick to apply the putty to the figure. To create hair, add small amounts and use the tip of your tool to carve texture lines.
3. Smoothing: Keep your tools and your fingers slightly damp with water. This prevents the putty from sticking to you and helps you achieve a glass-smooth finish.
4. Curing: Let the figure sit undisturbed for at least 24 hours. The putty needs to cure completely to become rock-hard.
Tips and Tricks:
* Work in thin layers. It is easier to add a second layer of putty than to sand down a giant, bulky lump of hardened epoxy.
* If you are sculpting over a joint, be very careful. You don’t want to accidentally “glue” the joint shut. Keep the joint moving periodically while the putty is soft.
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
* Ignoring Anatomy: When sculpting muscle or gear, look at the figure’s natural lines. If you add too much volume, the figure will look “puffy” rather than muscular.
* Impatience: Trying to paint or sand before the putty is fully cured will result in a gummy, ruined mess.
Visual Description:
The figure will look a bit strange at this stage, with grey or white patches of putty covering its original features. It looks like a “work in progress” statue.
Checkpoint:
Gently tap the sculpted areas with a fingernail. It should feel as hard as the original plastic. If it feels soft or tacky, give it more time.
Step 3: Painting and Detailing
This is where your custom truly comes to life. Painting requires a steady hand and multiple thin layers.
Instructions:
1. Primer: Start with a thin coat of plastic-compatible primer (white or grey). This provides a neutral base.
2. Base Coating: Apply your primary colors in thin, even layers. Do not try to cover the entire figure in one thick coat, as this will obscure the molded details of the figure.
3. Detailing: Use your finest brush to paint logos, tattoos, or intricate gear patterns. If you make a mistake, use a damp brush to wipe it away immediately.
4. Sealing: Once the paint is bone-dry, apply a matte or gloss sealer. This protects the paint from chipping during play or posing.
Tips and Tricks:
* Thin Your Paints: A drop of water mixed with your acrylic paint makes it flow much smoother. “Two thin coats” is the gold standard for miniature and figure painting.
* Masking Tape: Use Tamiya tape to create perfect, straight lines for wrestling trunks or armbands. Apply the tape, paint over it, and remove the tape while the paint is still slightly wet for the crispest edge.
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
* Thick Paint: If your paint looks clumpy, you aren’t thinning it enough.
* Skipping the Sealer: Acrylic paint is water-soluble. Without a sealer, the paint will eventually rub off, especially on joints.
Visual Description:
The figure transforms from a dull grey-and-white sculpture into a vibrant, professional-looking superstar. The colors should be opaque and the lines crisp.
Checkpoint:
Check for “bleeding” where colors meet. If you see a stray dot of paint, touch it up with your base color. Ensure the sealer is applied evenly.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even the most experienced customizers run into hitches. Here is how to handle the most frequent problems.
Problem 1: Sticky Paint.
Sometimes, especially in humid weather, acrylic paint stays tacky for days.
* Solution: Move the figure to a cool, dry area with good airflow. If it remains sticky, you may have applied the paint too thickly. Once dry, a light dusting of matte spray sealer often “cures” the tackiness.
Problem 2: Chipping Joints.
Paint has a tendency to flake off at the friction points of joints (like knees or elbows).
* Solution: Sand the joint down slightly before painting to create more clearance. After painting, use a high-quality flexible sealer. Even then, accept that some minor wear is inevitable if you plan on posing the figure frequently.
Problem 3: Paint “Bleeding” Under Tape.
You removed the masking tape, and the paint line is jagged.
* Solution: Don’t panic. Take a fine-point brush and use your background color to “cut back” into the jagged edge, effectively straightening the line.
When to Seek Professional Help:
If you encounter a structural issue—such as a snapped torso hinge or a stripped screw—you may need to source a “parts figure” to replace that specific component. If you are struggling with intricate facial painting, consider using “water-slide decals,” which can be printed from a home computer and applied like temporary tattoos.
Final Touches and Maintenance
The final phase is all about longevity and presentation. Your custom figure is now a piece of art, and it deserves to be treated as such.
Finishing Steps:
After the sealer has cured for 24 hours, perform a final quality check. Look for any missed spots or “dust bunnies” that might have gotten trapped in the sealer. If you want a realistic look, you can apply a “wash”—a very thin, watery layer of dark brown or black paint—to the recessed areas (like the abs or muscles). This adds depth and makes the figure pop.
Quality Check Procedures:
Gently move all the joints. If you hear a “crackling” sound, it means the paint is binding the joints. Do not force them! Use a hobby knife to carefully score the paint line between the joints, allowing them to move freely without chipping the surrounding paint.
Maintenance Tips:
* Dusting: Use a soft, dry makeup brush to dust your figure. Avoid liquid cleaners, as they can react with acrylic paints.
* Storage: Keep your figures out of direct sunlight. UV rays will yellow the plastic and cause the colors to fade over time. A display case is ideal.
Care Instructions:
If this is a “play” figure, be aware that custom paint will eventually show signs of wear. If it is a “display” figure, handle it by the torso rather than the limbs to minimize friction on the paint job.
Enhancement Suggestions:
To truly level up your customs, consider adding soft goods. You can sew tiny fabric capes, towels, or entrance robes to give your figure a premium feel that plastic sculpting can’t match. You can also purchase 3D-printed accessories online, such as custom championship belts or specialized wrestling boots, to add that final layer of authenticity.
Customizing WWE figures is a journey of constant improvement. Your first custom might not be perfect, but with every figure, your brush control will improve, your sculpting will become more precise, and your ability to see the “superstar” inside the plastic will grow. Enjoy the process, and remember: you aren’t just making a toy; you are creating a legend.
